StayCation Alberta: Alberta’s northernmost Badlands

It’s been a hot minute since I sat down to officially share thoughts and photos about my travels. Day jobs and living life certainly get in the way of documenting the things. I recently got to take an amazing day trip, courtesy of my husband as a birthday gift, and it really should be shared, so here I am.

When my husband asked what I wanted for my birthday this year, I couldn’t think of much in terms of actual physical gifts, so I asked for a day trip. I’d been reminiscing about a day trip we did last year to Hard Luck Canyon near Whitecourt. I originally found that trip on someone’s blog (which I’ve unfortunately lost track of), and it suggested a few other stops along the way, including Rocky Mountain Big Horn Distillery, to turn it into a day trip, and I had it in my mind to try the same type of trip, but head to a different location. I made this day trip request a bit challenging by asking for it to be multifaceted; I asked for part of the trip to include a historical stop that we might be able to metal detect at (a hobby I took up during the pandemic), possibly include some antiquing (I also became an old, old woman during the pandemic) some sort of hike (we all need to get out and be in nature), and maybe visit a local brewery (because beer is awesome). A final challenge to this request is that it had to be close enough to Edmonton, where we live, that we could leave in the morning after giving our senior, diabetic dog, her morning dose of insulin and be back in time to give her her suppertime dose.

Our first destination (“History”) was in the tiny hamlet of Duhamel. It was here that we stopped at St. Thomas Catholic Church, a historic Metis church dating back to 1883. We were surprised to find the church doors open and we were able to look around at the interior and some of the artifacts on display.

Up the road a short drive we found the church’s cemetery, with graves- some unmarked, dating back to the 1880s. This cemetery is the burial site of First Nations, Metis and early European settlers to the area.

After we explored the area, we headed to another part of the Duhamel area that was known to have early settlers and structures and did a bit of rainy metal detecting. We didn’t do much, as the day was rainy and the digging was muddy, but after a few bottle caps, nails and a drill bit, we did find a fancy old spike, that we think has some age, due to how far down it was buried.

After the digging and history lesson, we were ready for lunch, so my husband drove us to the next stop of the day: Donalda. I was aware Donalda existed, but I hadn’t yet had a reason to visit. This little village is particularly special, as it overlooks the Meeting Creek Coulee, which is the most northerly point of the Canadian Badlands (this is where the hike and nature portion will come in later). We initially drove around the area to take in some of the beautiful landscapes. We took some photos and chatted with some local cows before we headed into town to get lunch at the Coulee Tea House, an adorable café and restaurant in an old mechanic shop, with the most amazing selection of tea. We had a pot of tea, soup and sandwiches, and then did some shopping at the attached antique shop (yay! antiquing!) and local artisan market.

The thing that can’t be missed during a trip to Donalda, is the giant oil lamp on the edge of town. It can’t be missed, because it’s literally massive. From the village’s website: “Donalda has the largest oil lamp replica in the world.  At 42 feet in height, it overlooks the coulee and lights up all night, every night.  The Village Office across the street houses The Lamp Museum with the world’s largest oil lamp collection, numbering over 1000 lamps along with many local artifacts.” There’s a little walking area where the lamp is located, as well as the old railroad station, so after lunch, we headed there for selfies. I love lamp.

At the railroad station, you’ll find the signs posted for the Willow Canyon Hiking Trail. This trail (as per the sign) “leads to 129 acres of badlands offering fabulous sight-seeing from the top of the coulee rim to the bottom of the valley”. We strapped on our hiking boots and slathered on the bug spray and headed out to see the landscape up close.

We had a lovely 3.75km round trip hike, through forest, meadows, farmland and cow pastures that took us down to the bottom of the valley, where one could see what might be considered “baby” hoodoos. The hike is decently challenging, as it follows a lot of cow trails that were quite muddy from a lot of recent rain the area has had. While it was also pretty fun to hike along through the cow country, it should always be noted to make sure to never get between a mama cow and her baby cow. Even though the cows were generally avoidant of or indifferent to us humans, never make a mama of any species worry about her baby. In some cases, we had to hike through a bit of brush and avoid the main trail to give the cows a bit of space. The other thing to be aware of on this hike is the sheer amount of cow poop on the trails. But really, if you come back from a hike with clean hiking boots, did you really have an adventure?

I should add here as well that if you’re a birder (guilty) this is also a great area to find a good selection of birds, including American Goldfinches, the Wilson’s Snipe, Flycatchers, Vireos, Common Yellowthroats, and a variety of sparrows and Spotted Towhees.

The rain finally stopped and the day cleared up nicely during our hike. The area really is exceptionably beautiful. We were struck by the fact that the entire hike, we were the only two out there, so if you’re looking for a quiet hike filled with solitude – this one is for you.

Once we had our fill of hiking and nature and made it back to the car, our final destination, to celebrate successful physical exertion, was a local brewery. A 45 minute drive from Donalda had us at Battle River Brewery in Camrose. The brewery has a small tasting room and casual patio in town. After a few local beers and some chicken wings, we headed back to the city to tend to the elderly, diabetic dog.

I have to hand it to my husband for planning a very challenging request. We packed in a ton of activities into a single day trip, getting some local history, supporting some small town business, and getting in some good exercise in while getting out into nature. I highly recommend doing this trip if you’re looking for a quick getaway this summer. Feel free to get in touch if you have other suggestions for central Alberta daytrips as well.

Until next time, keep those hiking boots dirty.

L

Staycation Alberta: Camping at DTR

IMG_8641 hike behind resortwebI interrupt my Thailand ranting to bring you and episode of Staycation Alberta. We’re now in prime camping season in Alberta, and it’s a short season. My husband and I almost never vacation at the same spot twice; we feel that there is too much of this giant globe to explore to settle down at one vacation spot. Our one exception to this rule is David Thompson Resort. We have camped here in various forms for years as a couple and individually with our families when we were kids. DTR, as it’s affectionately known, is found on the David Thompson Highway heading west from Red Deer and Rocky Mountain House. Along the way you’ll come across the hauntingly beautiful Abraham Lake. It’s a turquoise color not unlike the seas around Antigua, but Abraham Lake has a weird ghostlyness to it. The area is generally still and quiet and visually is unique from the rest of the Rocky Mountains. This area is less popular than the Rocky Mountain national parks but is only about a 40 minute drive to Saskatchewan Crossing where you can enter Banff National Park and head north to Lake Louise or Jasper, or south to Banff, Canmore or Kananaskis.

Driving in on David Thompson Highway

Driving in on the David Thompson Highway

IMG_9187 Goldeye lakeweb

A lunch stop at Goldeye Lake

IMG_9190 goldeye lakeweb

A lunch stop at Goldeye Lake

IMG_9195 goldeye lakeweb

A lunch stop at Goldeye Lake

Previously, we’ve tented here (slept in the van- this is bear country), rented a trailer with an RV company and this time we rented one of the resort’s trailers. DTR has options for tenting, trailers and they also rent a selection of pre-set up trailers if you don’t have your own or don’t have the ability to tow a rental. There is a small selection of cabins to rent as well. DTR does group camping, has a small amphitheater and even a wedding venue. There are basic washroom facilities with pay showers and even a communal kitchen wash station, which is handy when your Coleman stove bites the bullet and you have no way to make hot water…

IMG_8644 home sweet homeweb

Our rented trailer

IMG_8643 view from campweb

View from the campsite

IMG_8634 shawn posingweb

Shawn mugging for the camera

 

 

There is a quaint motel with laundry facilities, a restaurant, convenience store with all the extra camping things you may have forgotten, and gas station. There are two parks for the kids to play in and a mini golf course. During peak season on Friday and Saturday nights, they have a rustic bar in the camping area to gather with friends (or make new ones) and they serve a cowboy breakfast (for a fee) in the mornings on weekends. Being in the middle of the wilderness, internet is still iffy, but they have free gust WiFi at the hotel lobby, so it’s a good way to really disconnect for a bit. DTR also allows dogs, just not in their trailers. 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_8689 Shawn rocketweb

Shawn re-living his childhood in the giant rocket

If you’re not one for sitting around the fire the entire trip, there are lots of nearby activities. There are some really cool hikes down to the lake from the camp site, but lots of really great other hikes a short drive away as well. Usually the staff are fairly knowledgeable about hikes and activities in the area. The hikes in this area are much quieter than the crowded national park trails, so you may have a lot to yourself (bring your bear spray). There’s a helicopter base just down the road where you can book a trip to see the mountains like never before, there’s a trail riding company across the highway and an interpretive fire trail with information about the controlled burn done in 2009 where you can hike through the burn area. If you’ve got a vehicle that can handle a bit of off-roading, there are lots of cool places off the highway and along the lake to explore.

6A40E3F3-8C76-4E09-A846-5DFD1C015A7D.jpegweb

 

 

IMG_9216 sunset hikeweb

Taking a late evening hike to Abraham lake on the summer equinox. Plenty of daylight left. 

IMG_9218 rocks by lakeweb

IMG_8639 Shawn rocksweb

IMG_9219 rocks lakeweb

Abraham Lake

IMG_9226 S and Lweb

IMG_9229 lakeweb

IMG_9230 lakeweb

IMG_9236 lakeweb

IMG_9251 inukshukweb

A cairn down by the lake

IMG_9258 lakeweb

IMG_9261 cairnweb

IMG_9263 lake mountainsweb

IMG_9247 plant and rocksweb

IMG_9239 driftwood lakeweb

IMG_9268 driftwood lakeweb

IMG_9289 lake view

Gorgeous golden hour

IMG_9297 lake viewweb

This next set of photos is from our trip last year, when we took Lex with us (and stayed in the van). We did some exploring around Abraham Lake and its shores:

I was delighted to find out this year that DTR even has hummingbirds as regular visitors to the area during the summer. I spent a few mornings stalking them on the restaurant patio:

If you’re looking for a place to camp that’s nestled in the mountains, quiet and away from the city, but still has amenities, this is the place you should check out the summer.

Have you been to David Thompson resort before? What are your favorite Alberta mountain camping getaways? As always, feel free to comment or ask questions. Thanks for stopping by and until next time, safe and happy travels!

-L