Staycation Alberta: Siffleur Falls and the story about how I never made it there twice

IMG_9656 Siffleur falls hikewebI’m not much of a hiker, but I’m working on my irrational fear of bears and I always try to do things that scare me in order to deal with and conquer my fears. I’ve come a long way in the past few years with a successful 17 km round trip to both tea houses at Lake Louise three years ago and a successful hike to the gorgeous Grassi Lakes in Canmore last year.

About six years ago was one of my first attempts at a hike in bear country since my fear started. My husband and I and our pug Lexi, were on a camping trip at David Thompson Resort and Shawn wanted to try a hike. We’d heard about the popular Siffleur Falls hike nearby and it sounded doable. Back then, I didn’t carry bear spray and I was an ill prepared hiker.

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I did okay for the first 20 or so minutes. We crossed the suspension bridge that crosses the Saskatchewan River. I began to get anxious when we got to the boardwalk area, which seemed like the perfect meadow area for bears to be at home in. My anxiety peaked when we reached a narrow closed in section of the trail where I couldn’t tell if my fear was overtaking me or if the feeling I was having of feeling “watched” was paranoia or was my instincts- it’s sometimes said if you feel like you’re being watched, you could be being stalked by a predator- and they have mountain lions here too. Even though I thought I could hear the waterfall ahead, my fear became too much with the trail being not densely populated and with my appetizer of a dog, I forced our little family to turn around. Even though I was alive, I was really disappointed in myself for letting my fear run wild.

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The Saskatchewan River and suspension bridge

Fast forward to this June. I had the chance to redeem myself. We were camping nearby again and I decided I’d be amenable to give it another go. Better prepared with rain gear, bear spray, a few snacks and confidence from recent successful hikes where I didn’t get eaten or lost forever, we trekked out. I made it over the bridge, through the meadow and boardwalk and actually made it to the Siffleur River Bridge (that last time I’d mistakenly thought was the waterfall nearby). I carried in bravely even thought the trail was again, not very busy and began to close in with thick brush. We followed the trail and passed warning signs that we were now in back country. In quiet, densely forested areas, I requested that Shawn tell me very LOUD STORIES as we headed further back into the mountains. We came to a bit of a fork with 2 trails with a trail head marker that was not longer there. After some discussion we decided to take the trail that looked more “used”.

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Crossing the Saskatchewan River

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Suspension bridge at the Saskatchewan River

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This took us up a steep trail and I realized we’d been walking for a while and was surprised to hear the sound of rushing water getting quieter, which I thought was odd, since we were hiking to falls. There were few markers and the obvious paths were getting less clear. My Garmin activity tracker told me we’d been hiking for well over 4km at this point so we checked the rudimentary map we’d gotten from the campground. It was then that we noticed the map (unlike the others we’d gotten for other nearby hikes) was listed in “hours” and not kilometers or miles. We didn’t have any idea how long we’d been hiking for, but guessed about 45 mins to an hour. The location of our falls was listed at 2.5 hours, which would make this at very least, a 5 hour return trip. Even though I’d prepared better, I hadn’t brought extra clothes or enough food to spend a night (worst case scenario in the mountains). There were very few other hikers and no cell service in case something happened. We hadn’t let anyone know we were on a hike, as we hadn’t expected this one was so long. We hadn’t set out particularly early and if we ate our snack on the way, we would have had nothing else for an emergency situation. Since we had no idea how much longer the hike would take (at this point we were starting to wonder if we were still on the correct path) and since we still weren’t prepared for a potential night in the back country, we decided to turn back.

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Boardwalk along the first part of the Siffleur Falls hike

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Getting into backcountry

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Leaf miner damage on some of the leaves

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Wild Orchids! Beautiful!

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Round leaf orchid

I was again, very disappointed in myself, but at least this time I didn’t turn back because I let irrational fears get the best of me. Maybe I was over cautious about the potential things that could go wrong, but I also didn’t want to be a statistic and need rescuing from a mountain park. In my frustration about still not making it to the damn falls, I have to keep in mind that we didn’t have great information from the map or the trail information at the trail head and I can use that as a lesson for the next time. When we returned and checked to see if we’d missed something obvious, we noticed that someone had written 4.4 km by hand on the map. Obviously, that’s not the kind of information one can necessarily trust either; who wrote it? How did they track it?

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A beauty day for a hike

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Crossing the Siffleur River bridge

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Siffleur River 

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Siffleur River

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Hiking back after turning around

 

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Star-flowered False Solomon Seal

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Red Paintbrush. One of my favorite alpine wildflowers

So Siffleur falls wins again. At the end of the day, we’d had a nice hike, the views were stunning, we found gorgeous flowers and I’m happy that I made it farther than last time. Maybe the third time will be a charm, with an early start, a full pack and a big can of bear spray.

Have you made it to Siffleur Falls? How was your hiking experience? Have you ever encountered misinformation about a trail? Thanks again for stopping by to read. Feel free to comment or ask questions! Until next time, safe and happy travels!

-L

Breathing Under Water: Scuba Diving In Antigua

So I’m currently trying to convince you all to go to Antigua. You can find my first article about this incredible paradise here. But now, I’m just going to give further evidence on why Antigua should be very high on your bucket list.

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Scuba diving in Antigua with a Blue Chromis

When we were planning this trip, I was in the middle of taking swimming lessons. You can read that blog here. Adult swimming lessons. Long story short, I never learned to swim as a kid. I tried but the fear was way too much for me to overcome at the time. Fast forward to my adulthood and ironically it turned out that I LOVE the ocean. I love the beach, palm trees, sand between my toes, the salty smell of the ocean breeze; everything about it. I love being on the water, and in the water, and I love sea creatures. What a horrible dichotomy to love something so much but to be so scared that the thing you love may kill you. I’d been snorkeling and boating on previous vacations, but there was always so much fear that really took away a lot the joy of the experience. Days of anxiety before a snorkel trip, holding onto the rails on boats extra hard knowing that if I went overboard, it wouldn’t be good. Even with a life jacket on, the fear was still almost too much. When I was 35 I finally had enough of the fear and decided to take control. I took adult swim lessons at a local rec center for 2 years. I pushed through the panic, I went even when I would have rather done literally ANYTHING else; I learned how to float, how to blow bubbles, and a bunch of different strokes. I learned that I’m way more buoyant than I thought and I learned how to acknowledge my panic but not let it take over my mind and body. When we booked our trip to Antigua I told my husband that I really wanted to keep pushing myself in the water and that I wanted a challenge. I don’t think he was expecting me to say I wanted to try scuba diving. And I don’t think he was really all that excited at the time.

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Swimming lessons

I knew I wouldn’t be comfortable jumping in the ocean never having tried diving, so I booked an introduction to SCUBA class through a local dive shop. It was a three hour evening class that let you experience the basics of scuba; the feeling of breathing through a regulator, the weight of the tank and belts, and went through basic safety and hand signal. It’s the same course you would take as a first time diver on vacation, but in the safety of a local swimming pool. It wasn’t a pass/fail class, but I failed. Hard. I was hyperventilating, flailing and panicking. I was so discouraged. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo you know what I did? I signed up and took the class again. And guess what? It went way better! I stayed much calmer, I could breathe with the regulator. I controlled my buoyancy, learned how to retrieve my emergency regulator, practiced buddy breathing, clearing my mask and hand signals.

 

As soon we arrived in Antigua and settled in at the hotel we booked our dive. I was anxious on the day, but also really excited. I knew there was potential for me to panic, but I also knew I wanted to see what was under all that turquoise water. I wanted to see the fish, corals, stingrays, and whatever else was down there, intimately and close up. I wanted to be in their world. The morning of the dive was spent in the pool, doing the same things we learned in the intro class I’d taken at home; breathing, learning how to regulate buoyancy, emergency procedures and communications. I did pretty well and was starting to get more excited than scared. Then, we headed out on the boat. Looking at the vast, choppy ocean, the reality that this was not the safety of a pool was starting to sink in. This was real life. We geared up and I was starting to wonder if I should do this; if I could do this… I was shaking, my heart was racing.

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Heading out to dive

I think the worst was that we had to sit on the edge of the boat and fall backwards into the ocean. During swimming lessons we’d done flips into the pool as practice for a disoriented fall; how to right yourself and not panic if you accidentally fall into water. I knew it was going to suck. And it did. I was instantly panicky when I hit the water. The instructor could tell and she came to help me. She reassured me that I could breathe and I had to take a few moments bobbing at the surface of the rough water, telling myself to just breathe: in – out – in – out – in – out. My breathing felt forced. It felt like I had to think of each breath to make sure it would happen. I was consciously having to convince myself that I was fine. Once I felt slightly calmer, we began the descent, which was also terrifying. We had to follow a rope down to the ocean floor and every foot I descended was more terrifying than the last, but if I could just get down…. breathe: in – out – in – out – in – out….

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Descent

Suddenly, on the bottom, I started to become aware of things besides my terror. The water was calmer; not choppy like the surface. I noticed the ripples on the sand that I was standing on. I noticed the slight pressure in my ears, one they told me to expect and how to clear. I saw that slightly ahead of us was a pile of rocks… a reef! The instructor checked that we were OK and ready to proceed and then motioned us to follow her. As we swam towards the reef, it was almost like a curtain was slowly pulled back and I started to notice more: bits of seaweed, a branch of coral.

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Reef with coral

A FISH! A school of fish! More schools of fish! A coral that looked like a brain! More fish! Yellow! A stripped one! A red one! Suddenly, I realized I was breathing, and not having to focus on every breath in and out. I was breathing UNDER WATER! As the dive continued from there, anxiety and fear began to melt away and was replaced with pure exhilaration and wonder. I could see into caves and nooks. I could see fish and lobsters schooling and darting around and going about their aquatic lives. I noticed corals swaying in the current. A landscape was laying out before me like nothing I’d ever seen. And the colors! Brilliant. Red, orange, purple, blue; a rainbow of life, hidden from view save for those of us brave enough to dive.

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Reef with French Grunt

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Incredibly colored corals with a sergeant major fish in the back right corner

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There are plenty of places in the world that are renowned for diving; Cozumel, Belize, Thailand, and Hawaii, just to name a few. Antigua, while amazing in so many ways, is not sought out for its diving. Because I’d never been diving before, I had nothing to compare to, so I wasn’t really concerned, and I’d kind of set myself up to be less than impressed knowing that it wasn’t a diving haven. That being said, the things I saw in the waters off the coast of Antigua were the most amazing things I’ve ever seen. If you’ve ever wanted to try diving before, there is no reason to not do it while you’re here. The water is relatively shallow in the good dive spots and there is just so much to see.

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Coral reef

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Longspine Squirrelfish school and Blackbar Soldierfish

When I was helped out of the water and nearly collapsed back onto the boat at the end of the dive, I was wasted. My adrenaline had used up all my reserves. I was overcome by pure exhaustion but also a thrilling exhilaration. I met my fear head on, succeeded, and was rewarded with some of the most amazing sights I’d ever seen. I did what I would have thought impossible only a few years earlier. And I did it in one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to. For the rest of the day I was filled with the most euphoric feeling. I’m so pleased that I pushed myself to do this and as it turns out, my husband also loved it.

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Black Bar Soldierfish

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A wrasse of some sort in the center of a coral. Perhaps a clown wrasse or a slippery dick wrasse

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A Southern Stingray glided past us and then disappeared into the blue

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“Everything is fine”

My scuba photos aren’t the highest quality, as my underwater camera isn’t a professional camera, and most of the photos are screen captures from the videos I took. That doesn’t matter. The photos captured moments of a truly incredible day. The reason I named my site Eterno Dia: Eternal Day; a day that I will remember for many, many years to come. Please enjoy the photos of one of the most epic days of our life and consider Antigua’s insane beauty for your next vacation.

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Scuba selfie

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School of blue chromis fish

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Safely back on the water

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Accomplishment

Don’t think I’m done trying to convince you all either. There will be more. As usual, feel free to share, comment or ask questions. Until next time, happy travels!

FYI: We booked our scuba trip with Indigo Divers Antigua. While the trip was a few years ago, I would highly recommend them. They get a 4.5 star review on TripAdvisor currently and you can find them here: https://indigo-divers.com/