Eterno Dia PhotographyFour Islands And A Sunset
Posted on June 9, 2019
Continuing our adventures of our epic trip to Thailand, day five of our trip found us on day two in the beautiful town of Ao Nang in Krabi province. On this day we were booked for the popular “4 islands tour”. Even though Krabi province isn’t an island, it’s surrounded by dozens of tiny islands; some flat, sandy paradises and others tall, limestone megaliths rising out of the water, covered in dense jungle, giving one an ominous sense of being in Jurassic Park. We started out with the tour group taking a van to the boat launch where we boarded a large speed boat. The morning was beautiful and temperate, but a large portion of the group was less than thrilled about the “early” morning due to the late night partying they’d done the night before (present company excluded). Visiting any of these islands costs a “national park fee” which our tour cost covered, however, if you were to book a private tour, the fee is quite reasonable and in line with Thai prices.
Our first “island” was a 20 minute boat ride from the Ao Nang area we were staying in. Phra Nang beach is still part of the Krabi mainland, but further south from Railay beach where we originally stopped on arrival at Krabi. This beach is simply stunning. When our boat arrived on the white, sugar sand beach, the immense limestone cliffs rising into the sky above the island demanded our immediate attention.
Pockmarked and covered in caves and vegetation, they are nothing short of a wonder of nature. The surrounding bay had the most crystal clear water and was so calm we could see tiny fishes swimming in the shallows. We were only given about 50 minutes of time to explore the area so we headed off in the direction of the cliffs, enchanted by their majesty. A short walk later we arrived at Phra Nang cave. Not having done any research about this particular cave, you might imagine my surprise when we found it to be brimming with phalluses. Phra Nang cave, or “Princess” cave is a small cave with a soft, sandy floor. Taking up a large portion of the cave were all manner of penis; big, small, wooden, plastic, carved, painted, and some adorned with ribbons and cloth.
Towards the back of the cave was a spirit house, which is a more usual sight to come across in Thailand. I had a hard time not reacting in some way to the sheer number of (say it with me now…) penises in the cave. In some areas they were placed erect in the sand, in farther corners of the cave, stacked in corners and up to the ceiling. I did my best to be respectful and close my gaping mouth as this cave is a spiritual place to the Thai people, and just because it was shocking to me, didn’t mean it should be treated as a joke.
According to legend, the cave is the home of a mythical sea princess and since ancient times, fisherman have made offerings of the symbolic phalluses. The offerings are believed to bring successful fishing trips and protect people from danger. The phallic offerings in the cave from more recent times are placed here as offerings in hopes of achieving fertility. After exploring the cave and collecting ourselves, we headed a bit farther south down the beach and followed some trails back into the cavernous limestone rocks. We didn’t have time to explore it, but there is a secret lagoon near here (I’ve searched it on maps) and it looks like an absolute paradise, if you have the chance to hike there.
We walked back through the cool, clear water, watched the fishes swim around our feet and collected some shells before heading back to the boat. As we pulled away from the shore, our tour guide pointed out the tiny island slightly south of Phra Nang beach that is literally covered in gold leaf. For the Thailand biennial celebration of 2018, artists were commissioned make an art piece and hammered one kilogram of gold leaf around the base of the tiny island. If you’re planning to visit Thailand and Ao Nang is on your list, definitely visit Phra Nang beach early in the morning as the crowds get very heavy from mid-morning on.
Gold leaf commissioned as an art installation on the tiny island in the left of the photo.
Island number two on the tour was an actual island (finally). Koh Tup, attached to Koh Mor, is a tiny, flat island. By the time we arrived here it was nearing noon and the sun was so bright on the soft, snow white sand that the glare and heat were nearly unbearable. While Tup is absolutely paradise to behold, there was little shade and it was oppressively hot.
We re-applied sunscreen, and tried to find some shade and stay hydrated, but the island was extremely crowded by this point in the day. We walked entirely around the island and over the tiny land bridge to Koh Mor in the 45 minutes we were able to spend here. There was a tiny, crowded snack bar, but we spent most of our time beach combing and being entertained by nervous crabs skittering around the rocky shore. This island would definitely be a gem if not so inundated with tourists. Again, if you want to book this privately, go early in the morning to avoid crowds and the hottest part of the day.
A very anxious crab
Island three: The tour guide admitted that the limestone rock formation that creates the “head” of Chicken Island, looks much more like a turkey, but explained that they don’t have turkeys in Thailand, hence Chicken Island.
Chicken Island
We didn’t actually step foot on Chicken but we had a brief snorkel here. I say brief, as we were given 45 minutes to snorkel, but Shawn and I were called back to the boat after about 15. Worried that something had gone wrong, we rushed back only to be told that nearly everyone on our boat wasn’t feeling well and didn’t want to snorkel. The majority of the tour group were insanely hung over from the previous night’s festivities and I won’t lie, even with the less than stellar snorkeling conditions at this location (the water was quite cloudy and deep here), I was really upset to have had the time cut short; this was our vacation too. We’d traveled 17 hours by plane, over 11,000 kilometers and saved up for nearly two years to get here so I was pretty angry that some hungover 20-somethings were taking away from our experience.
Sargent Major
Sargent Major and wrasse
Butterfly fish and coral
By the time we got to our last island, Koh Poda, I was fit to be tied. We stopped here and begrudgingly joined our group for a quaint lunch provided by the day tour group. We had two hours to spend here, and I was pretty done with the group at this point and had a hard time actually relaxing. Shawn and I wandered around through the unique feathery trees of the island, grateful at least for some shade as a respite from the heat. I floated in the ocean, watched a far off storm brewing and collected a few more shells while waiting for our ride back to the mainland.
Koh Poda
Some nice shady trees on Koh Poda
spirit house on the beach on Koh Poda
That evening, back in Ao Nang and still being annoyed with the tour group, Shawn and I headed out alone and found ourselves at Ao Nang beach to explore the town and find dinner. The beach was certainly not the stellar white sand found at some of the other beaches in the area; more of a yellow-ish sand and certainly not the cleanest beach I’ve ever been at, but the view was stunning as we watched the sunset over the ocean and a lightning storm off in the distance.
Ao Nang Beach
We found an ocean-side seafood restaurant for dinner and slowly explored the main street area afterwards. We lounged at a rooftop patio bar, did a bit of shopping, found the highly recommended “rolled ice cream” I’d been anticipating and enjoyed the lighter crowds.
Sailfish statue at Ao Nang Beach
Sunset at Ao Nang beach
An amazing seafood supper at a beach side restaurant
Despite the quieter and more laid back essence of Ao Nang, I was disheartened by the amount of garbage we walked by on the sidewalks, literally spilling out of over-full garbage cans. Thailand is an insanely beautiful country with amazing culture but it has a long way to go in reigning in tourists when it comes to littering and looking at solutions for copious amounts of waste and eliminating single use plastics.
Despite the difficulties of the day, I still found Krabi and Ao Nang to be a gorgeous, laid back respite from the culture shock of Thailand and it gave me a real sense of finally being on vacation in a tropical paradise. I was sad to leave Krabi the next morning, but I was told the best was yet to come…. Ko Phi Phi!
Thanks for stopping by to read. Feel free to ask questions, share or comment. Until next time, safe and happy travels!
-L
Finding My Calm In Krabi
Posted on April 5, 2019
Arriving at Nopparat Thara Pier
Continuing our adventures in Thailand, after two days in Phuket it was time for the tour group to move on, which was fine with me because I was surprised to discover that I didn’t love Phuket. It had been loud, busy, and the general feel of the place was a frantic, party vibe, and not the relaxed beach-y feel I’d hoped for. I was ready to leave Phuket and see what was next. While the tour we were on was referred to as an “Island Hopper”, our next destination, Krabi, is actually not an island. Located on Thailand’s south west coast, it’s a province on the mainland, surrounded by more than a hundred offshore islands. The area is known for is jagged limestone rock formations jutting from the turquoise waters, snorkeling, scuba diving, white sand beaches, lagoons and rock climbing.
Transportation from Phuket to Krabi had been pre-arranged of by the tour company. After successfully not dropping our luggage into the sea while negotiating a very narrow gangway with skinny rope rails, me, Shawn and the tour group boarded a rundown, two story ferry, with ancient captain style seats and antique life preservers from decades past. It was a peaceful 1.5 hour open ocean trip until we got our first sights of Krabi.
splash!
Islands in the distance
The ferry first stopped in the bay at Railay beach to drop off other passengers who would be staying in this area of Krabi. By “dropped off” I mean traditional Thai long-tail wooden boats drove up alongside the ferry and loaded passengers and luggage into them and then jetted off to shore. I’d never seen a boat to boat transfer like this and was a bit surprised to not see a pier or port.
Railay Beach West
Railay Beach – Passengers disembarking onto long-tail boats
Traditional Thai Long-tail Wooden Boat at Railay beach
The view of Railay beach was simply stunning; a gorgeous bay surrounded by emerald green rain forest covered mountains. The beaches were sparking white sand. Long-tail boats decorated in rainbow flags and ribbons dotted the turquoise water. Paradise. Our ferry continued along the shore northward until we reached the Nopparat Thara pier where we disembarked and boarded a songthaew, a pickup truck converted to an open sided taxi/bus, to take us to our hotel.
Nopparat Thara Pier
A boat named “Gretzky”. Never too far from home as an Edmonton Oiler’s fan!
Riding in a songthaew on route to the hotel
La Playa Hotel
Spirit House outside the hotel
Stone relief outside of the hotel
Our hotel was also a pleasant surprise, especially compared to our hotel in Phuket; a gorgeous tropical themed hotel tucked secretly into a stunning garden grove just off the “main” streets of the town of Ao Nang. The rooms weren’t ready yet, and although it had started raining, we wanted to explore. First we wandered through the gardens of the hotel. We found beautifully manicured lawns, orchids, tropical plants and a variety of small birds, unknown to me from back home.
Orchids
Myna bird
Common Tailorbird
We headed down a quiet street behind our hotel and found two 7-elevens for water and a stopped at a delightful small restaurant for lunch. The shopkeepers and restaurant staff in Ao Nang were polite and welcoming, but far less desperate than they seemed in Phuket. The streets were nearly empty, only a few tourist wandering about. It was a bit shocking but a welcome change from the noise and crowds in Phuket. We walked around the nearby streets for a while before checking in, getting settled and meeting the group for a pre-dinner pool party.
Lunch!
My favorite. Plumeria aka Frangipani
We didn’t stay long with the group and soon found ourselves exploring the quiet streets again. On the advice of our guide, we found the Ao Nang night market, a small but charming set up. There were makeshift “clubs” and bars along the back perimeter, set up on the back of flatbed trucks, with blinking LED lights and most only large enough to seat 10 or so people. There were plenty of booths to find food, drinks and souvenirs. There were a number entertainments acts going on in the centre of the market, mostly children and teens dressed in traditional Thai costumes, singing or doing traditional dance for the visitors. For dinner, I opted for a coconut stir fry, which was served in a freshly opened coconut.
Krabi night market
The woman who made it for me was absolutely artful in her skill of opening the coconut, making the stir fry from scratch in front of me and even topping the finished dish with an orchid for presentation. I offered her a tip but she was confused, thinking I misunderstood the price. I tried to explain with our language barrier that the extra was because she did a beautiful job making it for me and I thought she deserved extra for her hard work and skill. We had known before going to Thailand, and it was noted by our tour guide as well, that tipping is a rarity. So rare apparently, that I had to explain what it meant. When she understood my intention, she was thrilled; she began to giggle and blushed, clutching the money to her chest, and we thanked each other with a wai, a slight bow with hands pressed together. Shawn and I wandered around the market, purchased a few souvenirs, had a few drinks and called it a night on our first night in the lovely town in Ao Nang in Krabi.
Have you visited Krabi? What did you think? Too quiet or touristy or just right? Thanks for reading and stay tuned for our continued Thailand adventure. Feel free to comment or ask questions. Until next time, safe and happy travels!
-L
Eterno Dia Photography 